🔗 Share this article

When compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. But, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.